The Maldives team on the boat, some old friends from Sri Lanka and some new. LtoR: Grant, Richelle, Jackie, Caroline, Robena, Laura, Barbara, Sian and Peter

Day 67 continued 

At the airport very early, 3 hours before an international flight, but we've checked in so only need 90 minutes, but hey, leaving the hotel at 9.15 is quite civilised and we can wait there as well as anywhere and George lives near to the airport, so he can go home. We lost Lucie before we even went through security, though we did find her again for a coffee once inside.

First view of the Maldives as we came into land at Male

Uneventful flight at just over an hour, when again, they threw a warm snack and a glass of juice at us - BA take note and we landed in Male. Into the queue to find people with bits of paper, people clutching phones with QR codes and people looking confused. We joined the confused looking people as the notices warned not to queue for immigrants till you've filled out your IMUGA form. What?? Out of the queue, scan the QR code to connect to WiFi, scan the code to download the form, a very helpful man said what to fill in except I couldn't remember the name of the hotel and he said not to worry. Queue for immigration and get the keen trainee. The word boat stupidly came out of my mouth, so she wanted the name. No idea! Email Explore, while her supervisor is trying to ring our in country contact, who didn't answer because he was standing holding a board with Explore on waiting for us to come through! They just let us in in the end! Our bags were the last 2 going round the carousel on their own, but we are here. How come none of the 7 of us knew about this form though? Particularly as we have some very 'thorough' travellers!

Our home for the week, the Koimara a six bedroom ship, 4 rooms with en-suites below decks at midship (for Brian and Jackie, Grant and Richelle, Catherine and Peter and Laura and her mum Barbara) and two more with a shared bathroom for Robena and Sian in one and the crew in the other

Taxi to the hotel which has some really bad reviews, but I have to say our room was great. Except (there's always an except) that the remote control for the AC wasn't working. New batteries didn't make it work and the AC was stuck on auto. They showed us a room with no window and a room with twin beds. We'll stay where we are and hope we don't freeze or roast!

This was our room, it had a double at the bottom and a single on top. As the gap was small Jackie took the single and I had the outer part of the double. There was storage for baggage under the beds some shelves on the right, the cupboard you can see, a fan overhead and air conditioning that was turned on overnight. To the right of the cupboard was a door into a wet room shower with toilet and sink. It was comfortable enough and mercifully cool at night

Meet at 19.30 to go for dinner, meet the three new arrivals, Sian and mother and daughter Barbara and Laura and Moosa our guide. Dinner was late as it's still Ramadan so no alcohol, or quick service, but hey, it's ok.

Our chef who cooked some magnificent meals in that tiny kitchen

Day 68

A good night's sleep as I told the dragon lady(according to some of the reviews ) and mentioned that I'd do her a review when we are back and have our day room, so hopefully she'll give us a good room then too!

And our captain who stayed up all night to make sure we were safe and cat-napped during the day. Access to our four rooms was down the stairs just to the left. The fridges to his right contained chilled beer - very important!

Taxi to the boat, before breakfast, and we are away. The boat has been upgraded as the one we were meant to be on had engine trouble, so, overnight we have AC! Yippee. Yummy breakfast as we start our 4 hour cruise to our first reef. Our first dolphins before we have even left the port, and this is going to be good. Crosswords reading and chat. Getting to know the newbies, they are going to be fine, but I'm sure we must be intimidating.

A typical day on the boat. We'd be anchored somewhere near a reef for the night, get up to watch sunrise, be served breakfast, motor to our new snorkeling location while we laze like this on deck, be taken in the RIB for our snorkel, chill out like this again, be served lunch, motor to a new location, snorkel, be served afternoon tea here, chill out, drink beer, be served dinner, chill out, drink beer, go to bed and repeat seven times. It's a hard life! 

Arrived at our reef (Rihiveli Sands) and we all assumed we'd snorkel before lunch, but no, a quick dip for a few, then lunch, (which was fab. Lots of salad , safe because the boat has its own desalination plant to we know the water is good) then wait an hour and then our test snorkel to try out the equipment we have selected and for Moosa to see how we are. This apparently is the 'worst' reef of the trip, but a good starting point. Is it evil in that case to laugh at those just here for a day trip!? We enjoyed the snorkel though, nothing dramatic, but that's ok, we still feel like we are in paradise. Afternoon tea, just in case we were hungry which we weren't..

It has to be said, we saw some cracking sunrise (and sunsets) and here's a few early risers at 6:00am with coffee and tea that's served up for us

A couple of hours to our overnight, looking for, and seeing flying fish, having a beer, talking rubbish..... Good dinner, more rubbish talked before stargazing and bed.

A typical sunrise (or is it a sunset, it doesn't matter, they are all similar)

Day 69

Woken up by Brian at 05.40 so we got up to see the sunrise, beaten by Sian, but that's good, she's got the coffee coming. Breakfast, 10 minutes motor and our first snorkel of the day! (Kudhiboli Reef) Out in the rib, plop into the amazingly warm water and snorkel back to the ship. Most people are wearing something on their tops, Brian and I have gone for long sleeves and collars on ours, and I've gone one step further and am wearing the trousers I seem to have worn for most of the trip. I've had sunburn from snorkeling before, in the Bahamas and it's not something I want to repeat! The Sri Lanka crew are all doing pretty well on the sunburn score, but poor Sian is doing a pretty good lobster impression.

A typical dinner spread. How can ten people eat this much? We didn't, it was usually too much

This was turtle reef and it lived up to it's name, I think we all saw at least 3. Not as big as I was expecting, but overfishing for their shells, which has now stopped did damage the population. Little turtles will hopefully become big turtles though.

Fishing was done as we went along so we had fresh fish every day

Move on to a popular reef (Bongo Sands) with day trippers on the island, well, the sandbar with 3 bushes. We were glad to be able to eat another delicious lunch onboard before being taken out to the other side of the island to which we then snorkelled before being brought back to the boat in the rib

Getting onto the RIB for a snorkel. There's Jackie having just climbed down the ladder and being handed her fins, mask and snorkel (her 'Barbie' pink fins as Richelle named them). Moosa, our guide is holding the rope

We are staying here overnight, and by 16.00 it's just us and one more boat who obviously also have the same idea of eating on the island. Their rib goes out with chairs and tables, but not ours. Should we be concerned? No, when we eventually go out to the island we find firepits dug in the sand surrounding a sand table and sand benches and the most amazing spread of food including a fish, caught the night before measuring at least 50cm from nose to tail. The crabs circling looking for snacks were slightly perturbing for some, but the guys walking round with torches kept them away. What an experience! 

And off we go to our next snorkel destination

This is Jackie's list of what we often saw on snorkles, there's photos from the onboard books at the end:

Oriental Sweetlips

Squirrel Fish

Maldives Anemone Fish

Clarks Anemone Fish

Feathertail Stingray

Needlefish

Yellow Trumpet Fish

Trevally

Giant Jack

Goldfinger Dart

Yellow fin Goatfish 

Butterfly fish (assorted)

Banner Fish

Damsel fish (assorted, hut including clouds of Blue-green Chromis

Chocolate Dip Chromis

Fusilier Damselfish)

Wrasse assorted 

Parrot Fish

Unicorn Fish

Clown Triggerfish 

There are nearly 2000 islands that make up the Maldives, nearly 200 of which are inhabited. The remainder vary in size to this one which is nothing more than a sandbar. Some of us had swum back to the ship, others were collected on the RIB. There's Sian and Peter in the RIB with the driver and Musa, Catherine, Richelle and Robena on the shore

Day70

A shocking night's sleep bunged up or streaming nose, and tickly throat. Not the Ideal for a snorkeling holiday!

Here they come back to the ship

Didn't let it stop me though, but I can't recommend sneezing in a mask! Porcupine Ray, a turtle and an octopus were the identifiable highlights, but just in general it was probably the best site so far and apparently we had the best conditions for months. This was at Ambara.

See that sandbar? After all the day trippers had gone it became the site of our picnic dinner. Our crew went ashore, dug out seats and a sand table and laid out an amazing meal 

A gentle potter for about an hour saw us moor up close to a wreck. A ship that escaped India and was then intentionally sunk to provide an interesting snorkel site. It was certainly popular, as we had lunch and our hours digestion period boats came and went though sadly a couple whizzed in just before our time.

In the middle of an ocean, on a desert island, surrounded by flaming torches, we sat down to a banquet

Rather than just fall on to the wreck though the rib took us out the other side, for us to swim in, over the wreck and then continue on to the boat. Our first spotting of an eagle ray 'flying' through the water was a good start. Arrived at the wreck which was beautiful, much growth on it and well worth a visit. Sadly its popularity is its downfall. Every body else was the problem. From Muslim ladies even more covered up than me to poseurs in revealing costumes. Long, long fins for free deep diving, and posing in as if there was more than 10m I'd be surprised to irritating children kicking everyone in the face.

This fish, a Trevally, was caught that morning, but we only managed to eat half of it with all the other dishes that were also provided. We left the crew enjoying the remainder of the feast on the beach while we went back to ship for more beer 

We spent about 10 minutes loving and hating it before moving off towards our boat. Brian saw the rib and decided he was getting in, followed by Catherine, Pete and Laura. Robena asked me if I was swimming back to the boat to which I replied yes, surprising Brian so he got back in to the water. The water was slightly choppier than we've had, but it wasn't far and well worth the effort to get back to the boat.

These were the fire pits surrounding our dinner table

Today is Eid Mubarak, so much festivity was expected so we motored away from the wreck to a nearby island to see what was going on. Waiting till 16.30 to go ashore we found that precious little was going on, which surprised both Moosa and the captain. We didn't stay ashore long as the mosquitos were out despite us all being bug sprayed up. Didn't even get to stroke a cat, though did see some very chilled bunnies!

And there was our ship waiting for our return (there's beer on that boat!)

I felt horrible when we got back so lay down before dinner, an early night and one of the pills Brian bought in India and keep everything crossed 

Peter and Catherine enjoying a quiet sunset together at the bow of the ship

Hawksbill turtles 

Octopus 

Spinney lobster

Moosa got this fabulous video of a Stingray by diving down to the bottom while we viewed it from above

Porcupine Ray 

Meyers Butterfly Fish

Spotted eagle ray

But he could fool about too. Here he is as Superman

Day70

I did have a good night's sleep, I'm still snotty, but that's to be expected. 

Just as well I've caught up with this, it's 06.42, the AC has just been turned off so I'll go up and get a coffee and wait for breakfast. 

Saw quite a few pods of dolphins swim by on numerous days

I've turned into quite a trend setter it appears, long pants are the order of the day with many, though nobody looks quite as funny as Brian who has decided his only option is his merino thermal long johns under his swimming shorts which along with his cap turned backwards on his head to protect the back of his neck and his thin patch makes him look completely ridiculous.

Brian's snorkeling with sunburn kit, thermal leggins under swimming shorts, long sleeve top and dude cap. Cool or what!

First snorkel around the edge of a fairly busy island so lots of other legs to see in passing. Three more eagle rays flying off in to the distance and a couple of white tipped sting rays lying on the sand, one of which was bigger than it looked we realised when Moosa went down for a closer look. Our first shark, a black tipped reef shark, was seen by us all, except Brian as it swam right by him. We did eventually get him to turn round, just to catch a glimpse of it.

I'd talked about this all week, a short step onto the bar from the deck and in

Another lovely lunch, if you like tuna (in fish finger form today) potato, and salad, or spaghetti and red sauce, which we do so are thoroughly enjoying the food on board. 

Sharks swimming round our ship as we anchored. They are Nurse Sharks Moosa said, bottom feeders and completely harmless. What could possibly go wrong? We jumped in...

Our next site wasn't far, and there were many boats in the vicinity so we pottered gently over. Shark came a cry so we all dashed to the side to look. Brian was in the cabin so I hammered on our skylight. There are more at the back, and so there were, I counted 5 at once before bellowing down the stairs for Brian. Dashed from port to starboard and back again watching these big fish glide effortlessly back and forth before dashing downstairs to the cabin "we are surrounded by sharks, what are you doing?" We were all so excited, and then realised this was the snorkel site. We are a bit early after lunch but if you are all ready we can go. They are fine, don't worry, they are tawny nurse sharks, their mouths are underneath, they are bottom feeders, it'll be fine. Into the rib, towards the last two boats, who seemed to be finishing, 'we'll swim along the reef and back to the boat, if the sharks come by they may associate the boat with food but not people, so swim away from the boat if they are too close '. They were all around the rib, there seemed to be a lot of uncertainty, from some and anticipation from others so with that I was in, closely followed by Robena. Pete was hesitant till talked in by Mussa which apparently left Richelle alone on the rib, sitting on the edge, inching closer. A very gentle shove from the boat handler (for which he has been reprimanded) was just what she needed and she too was in, so happy to finally be there the hesitation gone immediately she was so happy.

What followed was one of the best experiences of all our lives. We were surrounded by these huge fish, between 2 and 3 metres in length who came and went, looking at us as we were looking at them. I saw Catherine stroke one as it bumped Richelle. I tried counting and lost count at 10. (Estimate from Moosa between 20-30) Hold out your hand and you can stroke it as it glides underneath you. (I lost count of how many times I did that too). I don't remember a reef, I don't think we saw it, we'd drifted straight for our boat as that seemed to be where they were gathering, and no, there was no food put in the water by our crew, but previous association was enough. Brian and I certainly, and I don't think anyone, ever felt in danger or threatened, they were just beautiful, gentle fish, of a species with a bad reputation. Some of them had little yellow fish (turned out they are juvenile Sweetlips) just ahead of them. Some had remora, some were alone, but they were all majestic. Gradually people were getting out, till finally there were just Brian and I, Robena and Richelle, even Moosa was out, though apparently he has never had quite this experience of numbers. I'll get out when the sharks have all gone, I thought, and yes, the numbers did diminish but two or three kept coming back. For about a second, there were none, so we got out, even though they were back before we'd finished, but it was probably time. How to describe something like this is very difficult, without the pictures that I usually let speak for me, but hopefully there will be some good GoPro video ....

Island visit. Jackie is actually looking through the R of the sign

Another island visit after a 2.5 motor looking for Eid celebrations. We arrived at Guraidhoo village on South Male where it was hot, hot and still. We waited till after 5 to go ashore, but it was still hot (had been 48 apparently) so we didn't last long. Highlight was the macaws taken out for their daily flight by their owners who always attract a crowd. What was really sweet though was the little girl who had brought her love bird out to visit despite her being aware that if the macaw was to grab it that would be curtains.

The islanders seemed to like our visit, this girl bringing her love bird for Jackie to look at, closely followed by her little sister

Another lovely meal, chicken curry, pizza and a 40cm trevally, all followed by birthday chocolate cake. Sian's birthday, one she won't forget because of the amazing shark experience but also because she has the cold and felt truly horrible.

Macaws out for their evening fly on the island

Day 71

Another hot day in paradise. 

And they provided a nice foreground subject against a sunset backdrop. A nice arty shot I thought. Catherine was the queen of the arty shots and she got some far better ones than me - but she didn't get this one - ha!

Brian had the cold first and is pretty much over it, except that on the wreck he went down to look at something, equalised the pressure in his ears and blew gunk from his sinuses into his ear canal. This is obviously not good! He keeps saying he'll miss a snorkel but with no will power and each one sounding great he's there every time.

Another island on another night and managed to capture this crab scuttling at high speed across the beach

Today is two coral gardens, which have been lovely. The coral hasn't been as bright as I expected, but there certainly was more to look at here than elsewhere along with the many many fish. Huge expanses of tabletop coral. Highlight of the first snorkel was two octopus (octopi?) showing mating behaviour. Chasing around changing colour and pattern we watched them for ages. If only we had an underwater camera! 

Another arty photo of our ship through the trees. Catherine's photo was better though

The temperature of the water is astonishing, as we were waiting to come back on board this afternoon I was actually swimming around trying to find some cooler water, it's warmer than a bath. This is a problem, it's an El Nino year. The last one was 11 years ago, so it's about time, but it will be devastating. The temperature of the air and water is going up which causes the algae to leave the coral. The algae form a symbiotic relationship with the coral polyp, they photosynthesise and provide energy for the polyp so if they leave the coral dies. Without the coral growth the reef will quickly begin to break down so offering less protection to the small fish who all get eaten by the bigger fish and so on. We can see the beginning of the coral bleaching and within a month the damage will be really noticeable to the extent that our trip would be really disappointing. If you've got a trip planned for later this year have a rethink!

Proper desert island beach

Another overnight island stop, one that Moosa has never been to, but one that does have a hospital and pharmacy! Sian came back from the pharmacy with more drugs than you can shake a stick at for her cold, while Brian (because he had a copy of his passport) could see the doctor for the pain in his ear. While visiting the wreck he'd done a little dive down to have a closer look, held his nose to equalise the pressure in his ear and blown muck from his sinuses into the ear canal. He has antibiotic eardrops and pills which hopefully will have had some effect before we fly on Sunday night. No more snorkeling for him!

With lots of little hermit crabs scuttling about

Indian Banner fish

Needlefish

Threadfin butterfly fish

Long nose butterfly fish 

Bird wrasse

Adorned wrasse

Checkerboard Wrasse

Moon wrasse

Powder blue surgeon fish

Red toothed triggerfish  

Indian trigger fish

Another sunset

Day 72

A reef Moosa has never snorkelled on for our first one today. We thoroughly enjoyed it as it was so shallow we felt very close to everything including the first sea urchins we've seen. Lots of the standard ones you don't want to step on and one crown of thorns. The crown of thorns is very destructive of coral and were a real menace before the last El Nino, so that may be one plus of this El Nino, it'll hopefully take out the crown of thorns before they become a menace again.

And  another (or was that a sunrise?). Quiet, cool breeze, coffee - probably a sunrise. What a way to start the day

We missed the sun, it's amazing what a difference it makes to the colours, but we still felt very involved. A white tipped reef shark was another tick, though not everyone saw it. 

We got to the edge of the reef and Moosa recommended we swam a little further round as he thought there was a current between us and the boat. He wasn't wrong, so I went for it. Head down and finning in my little pink fins which have been a source of endless amusement. I figured if it wasn't their size, but what I did with them that was important. I wasn't wrong, it was jolly hard work, but what I didn't know was I had Richelle following behind thinking if I could do it so could she, so to the beat of I'm a Barbie girl, in a Barbie world we made it, grabbed the steps and hauled ourselves in! Just in time as the heavens opened! The rain was amazing, we all loved it. More is forecast tonight and every day for the next week, not that we care. We had been worrying about the next trip not having AC if they have fixed the boat we should have been on, but perhaps it's not a worry. The other plus if the monsoon does actually come in is it might disrupt the heating and the El Nino

Another island visit, this time without the girls and when the cat's away the mice will play! This was my visit to the medical centre to get something to treat my ear infection

Final snorkel and we were down to 5, Robena and I, Laura, Richelle and Grant. Along with a banana each we were dropped off on the reef at the edge of a sand bar and left to our own devices. Fish quite like banana, though I couldn't get the black tipped reef shark interested, but are not really bothered by the skins! We all slowly 

And it just so happened that there were lots of kittens that Jackie missed by not coming. A drink on the ship with the girls won't offset this!

Slight interjection here, we've just arrived at our hotel for the day, before our flight home in 11 hours, I've gone to send Brian the draft of the above, and couldn't find it, somehow I'd written it from him not me, can you imagine the panic?

There were lots of them and they all wanted to be stroked by me!

Anyway, we all slowly pottered along the reef, I saw another black tipped reef shark, Robena, and I with Richelle at the back. Somehow she got herself turned around and was heading off to the wild blue yonder until the rib driver came up and pointed out the error of her ways.

I collected more 'trophies' having previously collected a flip-flop, a water bottle and a sun block bottle. This time it was a mophead and half a fluorescent strip light!

Another classic sunset from the RIB on the way back to the ship. That's not our ship but is a pub. The Maldives is a muslim country so no alcohol  is available on the islands. However that is a pub and they run tenders from shore out to it so locals or tourists who want to can go and have a drink

On to the sandbank to get into the rib and back to the boat, again, just before the rain. This time the rain stayed, till after bedtime. So glad we didn't have that all week!

Another fabulous meal (as long as you like tuna, think it was in every meal in some shape or form), gifts and speeches and off to bed.

What else can I show you? Sea planes. There were a lot of these as many islands were too small for an airport, so this is the only way (apart from ferries of which there were many

Day 73

Up a little earlier, to pack, take breakfast at 07.15 on arrival at the harbour outside the airport, and off the boat just after 08.00. Sian's flight is at 10.00 and although she'd hot spotted us all so we could check in for our flights, for some reason she had been unable to check in herself. Moosa kept saying it'll be fine, so hopefully it was.

This was our route, as posted by Moosa. It started and finished from the airport island at the capital, Male. We only went south of Male and then, not even to the southernmost islands, but Male is about halfway down the island chain, so the northern half is private and very exclusive. That's where oligarchs and celebrities go. 

We said goodbye to everyone, and went to leave our cases for the day. This made it much easier to get the ferry back to Male with just the essentials for a shower and change in our backpacks. We've had a look round Male, met many cats. There are NO dogs on the islands but many cats (hurrah). Saw the sights Moosa showed the early group before we arrived a week ago, except for the rays but the fish market, but I think they come for feeding at a certain time of day. Melted slightly as it's so hot, bought a fridge magnet of a tawny nurse shark and had a juice before going back to our original hotel for the day. She let us in early and boy are we glad. Still not sure Brian will get the whole blog done but we shall see!

Off to meet Robena for lunch in half an hour as she doesn't leave till the day after tomorrow, by which time we'll be home!

On the way out and on the way back is an island near Male that is the highest point in the whole country. This is their mountainous rubbish tip and getting bigger by the day. The average height of the Maldives above sea level is 2.3m, but this must tower 30 or more meters above! 

This kind of thing is a very common sight. Strings of holiday homes on stilts over shallow reefs off a little island providing the Maldives with their main source of income, tourism. It constitutes the main (over 70%) of the country's income and islands are being tamed, built up by importing sand and cement building small ports and landing stages. It's this island country that is at the forefront of climate change and rising sea levels, although the current president (elected in October 2023) is a denier of climate change and has publically said so. Others say that artificial strengthening of islands is counter productive as it changes currents that can cause sand deposits to be washed away rather than deposited. They say natural islands will get larger as seas rise as the currents bring in more sand. Certainly new islands are appearing all the time. It's not considered an island until coconut trees grow on it, then they are auctioned off to the highest bidder. It means that people are planting coconut trees on sandbars that have little hope of surviving in the hope it will be declared an island and they can make money out of it  

Zooming in you can see the luxury villas. Some of these high end villas (not necessarily these, maybe more exclusive ones) can rent for over £10,000 per night. If you're luck you might get a small one for £500 per night. Glad we're on a ship!

Nearly forgot to put photos of the wreck we snorkeled around. There it is by that reef just right of centre

There it is a bit closer with other snorkel boats around

And there it is close up. Interesting to look at as coral is sprouting up all over it underwater, but the problem are the crowds of other people, many of whom have no common sense or consideration for others. It was diving down on here to a depth where I had to equalise pressure on my ears that I got my ear infection

After that I stayed on our ship and watched the others on their last two snorkels of the trip. I could see how our RIB driver watched them all from a close distance to make sure all is well, ready to step in to lend a hand should the need arise

There's Peter sticking his head above water to see where everyone else is

There's Moosa checking on everyone

There's Jackie powering back towards the ship

Jackie's back, has rinsed herself off with the freshwater hose and is taking off her wet things

And the others are safely back ready to climb the ladder back in

After saying goodbye to all the others we took a walk round Male today. This is the memorial to the fallen following a terrorist attack on the islands in 1988. The circle is a crater from the explosion (I'm sure it's been created and isn't real) 

The island is big enough to have its own tropical park

And some impressive buildings

A cruise ship anchored just offshore ferrying passengers in on tenders. We saw the crowds coming ashore and remembered our experience of cruising last December. We should have stopped here on that cruise but didn't as the new government had massively increased the port fees. Perhaps they've come to some arrangement now as, we heard cruise companies were boycotting the islands in protest

OK, the rest of this blog entry comprises photos of some of the fish we saw, taken from the onboard books. We saw many more but can't be sure of their identity. These we definitely saw often in huge shoals, the reefs were a mass of fish life:

 

Bye-bye Maldives, you've been a blast and we've loved it. If any of our fellow travellers are reading this, thank you, you've made our holiday. Thanks to Peter, Catherine, Richelle, Grant, Robena and Sian, Laura, Barbara and, from Sri Lanka only, Lucie